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DC4 – The Purveyor Of Japanese Denim In Berlin

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DC4 - The Purveyor Of Japanese Denim In Berlin

DC4 is a premium denim shop in Berlin, Germany that has been offering the best of Japanese brands since 2004. Daniel Cizmek, the man behind the store, embarked on this project due to his self-proclaimed “denim addiction”. He initially kicked off retailing brands including Somet and Pure Blue Japan, before finally managing to stock Iron Heart.

As time passed, he gained more experience and knowledge about Japanese fabrics, and with the help of his crew, Ollie Paff and Frank Heitmann, Cizmek put together years of experience to create the best possible store.

They eventually became an official retailer for brands like The Flat HeadDry Bones and Samurai Jeans; as well a gamut of other beloved labels, including Studio D’artisan, Souvenir Jackets, R.J.B., Manifold, Joe McCoy and soon Toy McCoy.

DC4's denim lineup

DC4 Shop

Cizmek was introduced to denim at a young age from his own father. He vividly recalls being told “real men wear denim” by his Croatian dad when he was just 5 years old. Over time his interest naturally evolved into a passion, and after a brief stint in fashion design school, he decided that denim was his business.

Samurai Denim Collection

Samurai Denim Collection

Though his experience and passion can be seen and felt within the shop (and its success), one critical ingredient to the success thus far of DC4 has been his special care for his customers beyond a closed sale. Cizmek gives each customer the capability to customize their leather patches with material (calf or deer), edge finishing, graphic design, and other personalized options (e.g. include monogram of their own name).

DC4 Shop

A soaking room is already on the go as well, giving clients with little to no knowledge about the shrinkage process better access to unsanforized denim. Of course DC4 also offers a free chainstiching and repair service for all the jeans purchased at the store, using their own vintage “Black Head” Union Special 43200 specially tweaked for their mechanical expert, Frank. To top it all, an embroidery service is also offered.

Custom Repair Workbench Custom Leather Patches

The Berlin shop also makes an effort to maintain special relationships with their brands, including The Flat Head. At the time we were there, a crew from the Japanese label were visiting the store, exhibiting their new products in the Bread & Butter event together with DC4.

From left to right: Frank Heitmann, Daniel Cizmek, Takeshi Kojima (R.J.B.Designer), Yamada Shunsuke, Masake Horiuchi (TFH president Kobayashi's right hand man) and Ollie Paff.

From left to right: Frank Heitmann, Daniel Cizmek, Takeshi Kojima (R.J.B.Designer), Yamada Shunsuke, Masake Horiuchi (TFH president Kobayashi’s right hand man) and Ollie Paff.

Cizmek does have a second love after denim, namely motorcycles. At the moment, he’s eagerly awaiting a specially built bike from Herzbube Motorcycles next summer called the “Twiggy”. He’s so excited for the completion date that he intends to display his custom steed at the Race 61 Festival in Finowfurt.

The denim and rockabilly worlds will also be tied in as the rockabilly band, The Rob Ryan Roadshow, are slated to perform; co-sponsored by both DC4 and the The Flat Head.

Motocycle

From left to right, Rob Ryan(The Rob Ryan Roadshow), Bernhard Elflein(Herzbube Motorcycles) and Ralf Summers(The Rob Ryan Roadshow)

From left to right, Rob Ryan(The Rob Ryan Roadshow), Bernhard Elflein(Herzbube Motorcycles) and Ralf Summers(The Rob Ryan Roadshow)

Needless to say, if you are ever in Berlin and on the lookout for Japanese premium denim or simply high calibre goods, DC4 is your place to go. Period.

DC4 Denim and Jacket

The post DC4 – The Purveyor Of Japanese Denim In Berlin appeared first on RawrDenim.com.


6 Pairs Of Raw Denim Between $200 And $350

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6 Pairs Of Raw Denim Between $200 And $350

6 Pairs Of Raw Denim Between $200 And $350

At a certain level near the top of the raw denim industry are a number of real standout denim manufacturers. From the still relatively speaking low 200 dollars to the closer to premium 350 dollar price tag, here are 6 pairs of top drawer raw denim.

The Japanese-centic nature of the list reflects the attention to some of the finer points of raw denim craftsmanship and denim sourcing in the Japanese premium raw denim market, as well as sadly the exorbident shipping and duty costs.

1. Iron Heart 634S

Iron Heart 634S

Iron Heart‘s signature jean, a straight cut modelled and crafted to be worn for decades over motorbikes and days of hard work, is an excellent option in the 200-350 dollar price range.

Taking inspiration from 20th century American work and biker wear with 21st century updates and then drawing on the best of Japanese craftsmanship and materials, one of Iron Heart’s interesting updates is being able to take a very heavyweight denim and make it exceptionally comfortable.

These are probably the most comfortable 21 Oz. denim you’ll ever try on. Available at: rue + state for $340.00

2. Mister Freedom Californian Blue Jeans (Lot 54)

Mister Freedom Californian Blue Jeans (Lot 54)

These jeans from Mister Freedom are the lightest of the denims on this list, the 12 Oz. New Old Stock selvedge indigo unsanforized denim in a 1950′s era blue jean inspired Mister Freedom pattern is a great denim option for summer.

These are crafted with the uptmost of care using the best available materials and construction, everything down to the beford cord pockets and hand stitched M back pocket design are carefully thought through. Available at: Self Edge for $250.00.

3. Momotaro 0701

Momotaro 0701

Momotaro are an interesting option in the 200-350 dollar category, as they’re one of the most popular premiere denim options and have travelled more widely than most Japanese denim names do. Momotaro are sold in most countries, so their premier priceline has gone down slightly from what it was in the days Japan was the sole country of distribution.

That being said, they really haven’t experienced the decrease in quality some brands in the same phase go through, and are one of premiere Japanese denim’s best, so are well worth a look at when searching for your next favorite pair. Available at: Blue In Green for $315.00.

4. The Real McCoy Joe McCoy Lot 906S

The Real McCoy Joe McCoy Lot 906S

These straight cut jeans from Japanese brand with a real eye to vintage Americana The Real McCoy are another great option in the upper end of the denim market. These are a 14.75 oz unsanforized Japanese denim, made in Japan with inspiration from mid-century Americana.

The Real McCoy’s are a well known and well trusted brand when it comes to material sourcing, craftsmanship and generally coming up with premiere products. These, given their slightly lower weight of denim, will be one of the easier wear-ins of the premiere denim market, and will also last exceptionally along with most of this list. Available at: Blue In Green for $285.00.

5. Pure Blue Japan XX-005

Pure Blue Japan XX-005

With a name like Pure Blue Japan, it’s hard to imagine that the denim would be anything but the best. As they’ve made this list, clearly the denim is right up there with some of the best in the world.

PBJ original slubby texture denims, which include the XX-003, XX-004, XX-005, XX-005BK, XX-007, XX-009, XX-010, XX-013, NC-005, and NC-013, are all woven using the same single shuttle loom machine. The machine is manipulated and rigged in such a way as to create this unique loose and uneven weave; and only for use by Pure Blue Japan.

This, like the last option, is also a 14 Oz. denim, so will break in without as much fuss as some of its heavier colleagues in this list. As the name implies as well, these jeans are made in Japan. In typical Japanese denim standards, every detail right down to the Sheepskin leather patch, is meticulously thought through. Available at: Blue In Green for $275.00.

6. Edwin ED-47

Edwin ED-47

These rainbow selvage jeans from Edwin are last, but definitely not least, on this list of premium raw denim options. Edwin takes a real pride in craftsmanship and sourcing of their excellent Zimbabwean denim, this being a prime example of the brand’s signature ‘Rainbow’ selvedge which they’ve been crafting since 1963.

The ED-47 are a straight cut, regular fitting jean cut from a relatively heavyweight authenticly sewn denim. They’re also one of the more ‘dressy’ options which wear quite well through most social situations. Available at: Mr. Porter for $230.00.


Which on this list is your favorite? Are they pairs of raw denim that you think we missed? Let us know in the comment below.

The post 6 Pairs Of Raw Denim Between $200 And $350 appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Iron Heart’s Latest Denim Shirts – IHSH-75 and IHSH-76

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The Iron Heart IHSH-75

The Iron Heart IHSH-75

Iron Heart is a brand synonymous with rugged durable looks – think lumberjacks or motorcycle mechanics. Whenever I see these types of shirts, I think of the Marlboro Man or Richard Avedon’s In The American West.

The IHSH-75 is the replacement former model, the IHSH-53. It is built with a sturdy 12 Oz. indigo selvege denim and aluminum cat-eye buttons. 12 Oz. seems a good weight for a shirt, coming off as neither too heavy so as to be uncomfortable but also not so light as to feel like you’re wearing a normal shirt.

The other cool aspect to take note of is the chain stitching run off along the selvedge gussets. It’s a nice added feature that may be overlooked or more possibly be cutoff as a loose thread by the uninitiated. Regardless, it’s a unique characteristic.

The Iron Heart IHSH-76

The Iron Heart IHSH-76

Taking a look at Iron Heart‘s other release, the IHSH-76 is described on the company’s blog as the ‘big ugly brother’. It’s a western type shirt or jacket with side pockets and weighs in at 17 Oz.. Considering most pants fall in the 11-15 Oz. range a ‘shirt’ made with 17 Oz. denim boggles the mind. They also call it a shirt/jacket which I think is a considerably more accurate name. The 76 has most of the same features as the 75 but also includes an interior pocket lining.

Details

  • Name: Iron Heart IHSH-75 and IHSH-76
  • Weight: 12 and 17 Oz. (respectively)
  • Fit: Slim Fit – (it’s been rinsed so there should be no or minimal additional shrinkage)
  • Denim: Indigo selvedge denim
  • Color: Indigo (selvedge)
  • Further Details
    • Aluminum cat-eye buttons
    • Chain stitching runoff
  • Available for 265.00 USD from Iron Heart 75 and 76

Photos

Cuffs

Cuffs

Pocket Bags

Pocket Bags

Pocket Details

Collar Details

Collar Details

Chain Stitching Runoff

Chain Stitching Runoff

The post Iron Heart’s Latest Denim Shirts – IHSH-75 and IHSH-76 appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Top Shops In New York City To Buy Raw Denim

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Self Edge New York - Top Shops In New York City To Buy Raw Denim

Self Edge New York – Top Shops In New York City To Buy Raw Denim

Regardless of your denim preferences, when it comes to purchasing top notch raw denim in New York City, there are certainly no shortage of brick and mortar shops that can cater to your desires.

Bearing this in mind, here is a list of what we consider to be some of the premier destinations in the Big Apple to grab yourself a new pair of raw denim jeans. Note that each store has its own specialties to meet your denim needs, so be sure to not limit yourself to just one shop!

1. Blue in Green

Blue in Green - 8 Greene Street, NY

Blue in Green – 8 Greene Street, NY

Blue in Green is widely regarded as one of the top places to buy raw denim in the world, let alone New York City. The staff provides excellent service and they are extremely knowledgable about the products they carry.

They have one of the most diverse selections of top quality raw denim in the city, including brands such as Japan Blue, Eternal, Left Field, Momotaro, Samurai, and many more. Stop by their SoHo location, or check out their impressive selection online.

2. Self Edge

Self Edge NY - 157 Orchard Street, NY

Self Edge NY – 157 Orchard Street, NY

Andrew Chen and his Self Edge staff are known as being some of the experts on raw denim and their brick and mortar shop in New York City does not disappoint. They provide a full range of denim services, including repairs as well as chain stitch hems; and their employees are friendly and extremely knowledgable about raw denim.

Self Edge specializes in Japanese denim brands including: The Flat Head, Iron Heart, Sugar Cane and Co., as well as American brands Roy and 3sixteen. Stop by their location on the Lower East Side, or check them out online.

3. Steven Alan

Steven Alan - Multiple Locations (but from experience the 103 Franklin Street location has the best raw denim selection)

Steven Alan – Multiple Locations (but from experience the 103 Franklin Street location has the best raw denim selection)

Steven Alan is more known for their shirts and other non-denim goods, but their multiple locations around the city also stock a unique collection of raw denim. Brands that the stores carry include: Steven Alan, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, 3sixteen, Acne, Baldwin, A.P.C., and more. Check out one of their well-curated shops around the city, or their online shop.

4. The Jean Shop

The Jean Shop - 435 West 14th Street, NY

The Jean Shop – 435 West 14th Street, NY

Originally focused primarily on top quality denim, The Jean Shop has expanded its offerings to include an assortment of products ranging from belts and shirts to jackets.

Though they have expanded, they are still best known for producing custom denim out of premium Japanese selvedge denim. Stop by their location in the Meatpacking District, or online.

5. Barney’s Co-Op

Barney's Co-Op - Multiple Locations

Barney’s Co-Op – Multiple Locations

Barney’s Denim Bar offers an extremely diverse and extensive selection of raw denim. They carry high-end designer brands like Saint Laurent and Givenchy, mid-tier brands like Jean Shop and Raleigh Denim, as well as more wallet-friendly denim from brands like Nudie and Naked & Famous.

The large selection guarantees something for everybody. Stop by one of their many New York City locations, or check them out online. 

6. Hickoree’s

Hickorees - 109 South 6th Street Brooklyn, NY

Hickorees – 109 South 6th Street Brooklyn, NY

Though Hickoree’s Hard Goods is not known for their raw denim selection, they stock an eclectic and impressive variety of raw denim that is not easily found elsewhere.

Brands that Hickoree’s stocks include Tender, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, Kapital, The Quality Mending Co., and many more. Check them out at their Floor Two location in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, or online.

The post Top Shops In New York City To Buy Raw Denim appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Fade Friday – Iron Heart Beatle Busters (Two Years, Many Washes)

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Fade Friday - Iron Heart Beatle Busters (Two Years, Many Washes)

Fade Friday – Iron Heart Beatle Busters (Two Years, Many Washes)

It’s been well over 2 years since the Iron Heart Beatle Buster has hit the market – and as you can imagine, it’s been an adventure from day one. Not only since these have my name on it and have been designed & manufactured with the support and generous help of Iron Heart founder and owner Haraki-san and IHHQ UK , but foremost because they represent everything that a high quality pair of jeans should feature.

They feature a 21 Oz. denim that is not only extremely heavy but also super soft and breathable; in other words a pleasure to wear, no matter what season.  I believe that jeans are our everyday garment and therefore I don’t take them off when it comes to chopping wood or changing tires on the car.

My pair has traveled from Asia to the US and back to Europe, has enjoyed the beaches of Thailand and sat on Tokyo’s busy pavements. There’s been sunshine, rain and as much snow as you can possibly imagine. They’ve been biking and hiking and have been a reliable partner for 24 months of my life.

Sadly all that heavy beating has taken it’s toll, there are now quite a few repairs that need to be done. The knees were one of the first parts to give in and the denim around coin pocket and yoke is now seriously smashed. The hidden rivet on the left back pocket is not so hidden anymore and the pocket bags are in need of some good needle work.

They are still wearable though, which I doubt that would be the case if the denim and the craftsmanship behind it wasn’t as excellent as it is. I am already excited to find out how the next pair will last – the special edition in 25 Oz. – the Mega Beatle Buster which will be released for the Heavyweight Denim Championship of the World 2 (HWDC 2).

Details

  • Name: Iron Heart Beatle Buster
  • Weight: 21 Oz.
  • Fit: Slim-tapered, high-rise
  • Denim: Sanforized 100% Cotton
  • Other Details
    • Herringbone pocket bags and rear pockets linings
    • Button fly and hidden rivets
    • Hidden knife pocket in front left hand pocket
    • Poly-cotton constructional stitching
  • Length of wear: 2 Years
  • Number of washes: Unknown
  • Available at: Iron Heart for $400.00

Photos – Before

Fit - Iron Heart Beatle Busters

Patch - Iron Heart Beatle Busters Selvedge - Iron Heart Beatle Busters

Photos – After

Busted Rivet - Iron Heart Beatle Busters (Two Years, Many Washes)

Busted Rivet – Iron Heart Beatle Busters (Two Years, Many Washes)

Front - Iron Heart Beatle Busters (Two Years, Many Washes) Yoke - Iron Heart Beatle Busters (Two Years, Many Washes) Lap - Iron Heart Beatle Busters (Two Years, Many Washes) Knee - Iron Heart Beatle Busters (Two Years, Many Washes) Front Pocket - Iron Heart Beatle Busters (Two Years, Many Washes) Frayed Hem - Iron Heart Beatle Busters (Two Years, Many Washes)

The post Fade Friday – Iron Heart Beatle Busters (Two Years, Many Washes) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Iron Heart Mega Beatle Buster Limited Edition 25 Oz. (IHxBxHCx25oz)

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Iron Heart Mega Beatle Buster Heavyweight Championship 25 Oz. Denim

Iron Heart Mega Beatle Buster Heavyweight Championship 25 Oz. Denim (IHxBxHCx25oz)

It started as just a bit of wishful thinking, but with the thoughts of the first Heavyweight Denim Championship fresh in my mind, all I knew was that I wanted to make Round 2 bigger, better, and really raise the bar. What better way to achieve this than have a competition-specific jean made; and who better to make it than the masters of heavyweight denim, Iron Heart.

The first conversation had concerning (what would become affectionately known as) the Mega Beatle Buster jean was at the launch party of Rivet and Hide in October, last year. After plying Giles Padmore of Iron Heart with copious amounts of free booze I chanced my luck.

Me – “So, for the HWDC round 2, I was thinking that maybe we could have a competition specific jean…made by Iron Heart”

GP – “What did you have in mind?”

Me - “Something heavy?”

GP - “25 Oz. heavy enough?”

Me - “Perfect”

GP - “We haven’t done a Buster in 25 Oz. yet.”

Me - “Even more perfect”

The rest of the details were discussed, forgotten, remembered, emailed back and forth, and finally settled upon. We wanted to make it just different enough to be specific for our competitors, but not different enough that we were in danger of altering a classic.

We decided upon a competition specific patch designed by my partner in crime, co-conspiritor in the HWDC2, and the originator of the Beatle Buster jean, the high priestess of denim, Beatle. We also wanted to change the arc colour and make it a little more, well, badass.

The most pleasing part of these jeans for me is that I have honestly not seen one bad fit yet. Every picture of every person wearing the MBB‘s has looked so great that I think that it could be the best fitting denim for multiple body types.

Given how well the silhouette flatters the wearer, the 25 Oz. denim lends itself nicely to the Buster cut. What’s more is that after 30 or so wears, it becomes as soft as an old pair of sweat pants. To speak to concerns about wearing this heavy of denim in hot weather as well, I wore mine in 33C heat and kept my cool.

For anyone who missed the boat with the MBB’s, Iron Heart have also produced the Beatle Buster in 25 Oz. denim, which are pictured here and effectively the same jean without the competition specific patch or back pocket flasher.

Special thanks to Rafa (a.k.a. Iron Heart forum user, Finn666) for the model shots and photography.

Details

  • Name: Iron Heart Mega Beatle Buster Limited Edition 25 Oz. (IHxBxHCx25oz)
  • Weight: 25 Oz. sanforized raw selvedge denim
  • Fit: high rise, slim fitted
  • Other details:
    • Limited edition – only 119 pairs world-wide
    • Button fly and hidden rivets
    • Hidden knife pocket in front left hand pocket
    • Poly-cotton constructional stitching

Photos

Fit - Iron Heart Mega Beatle Buster Limited Edition 25 Oz. (IHxBxHCx25oz)

Fit Close-up - Iron Heart Mega Beatle Buster Limited Edition 25 Oz. (IHxBxHCx25oz)

Selvedge and Button Fly Detailing

Tag and Stitching

Back Pocket Arcs - IHxBxHCx25oz

The post Iron Heart Mega Beatle Buster Limited Edition 25 Oz. (IHxBxHCx25oz) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Iron Heart Devil’s Fit 21 Oz. Superblack Denim (IH-666SB)

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IH-666 Featured Image

As the Devil’s Fit is one of the most demanded styles from the team over at Iron Heart, it should come as no surprise that they received numerous requests to produce the denim in black and responded with an amazing jean.

The Iron Heart’s 666SB boasts a 21 oz. superblack denim that is constructed with reactive dyed warp and weft, meaning that the dye has a substituent which is made active and directly reacts to the surface of the thread. This creates a unique combination that actually prevents the fading process from occurring. Or in other words, your superblack jeans will look ever-crisp and retain its colour with time. 

IH-666 Line

For those concerned about what to expect in terms of shrink and stretch, the 666SB is already sanforized – thus, one can expect minimal shrinkage, between 1% – 5% – but should still plan for net 1″ stretch. On the aesthetic and construction side too, you’ll notice Iron Heart opted for a red overlock stitch on their side seams rather than a more common red-line selvedge finish.

Besides these details, the Devil’s Fit is usually outfitted with a button fly, there’s reinforced taping alongside the front pocket openings, and the belt loops are sewn into the waist band. They does offer different lengths for this fit, so for those interested, be sure to check out their measurements.

IH-666 Fits

Details

  • Name: Iron Heart 21 Oz. Superblack Slim cut Jeans (The Devil’s Fit)
  • Weight: 21 Oz.
  • Fit: Slim Cut
  • Denim: Iron Heart’s Superblack Denim with Reactive Dyed Warp and Weft
  • Other Details:
    • Sanforized
    • Button Fly
    • Reinforcing tape on inside of front pocket openings
    • Red overlock stitching
    • Polycotton constructional stitching
  • Available at: Iron Heart for $370.00 USD

Photos:

IH-666 Patch

IH-666 Interior

IH-666 Back Patch

The post Iron Heart Devil’s Fit 21 Oz. Superblack Denim (IH-666SB) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Fade Friday – Iron Heart 634SR (2 Years, Multiple Washes)

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front top

Though we try to reserve our weekly Fade Friday segment for those worn pairs of denim that are thoroughly photographed (fit photos, included!), this now-extinct pair of Iron Heart 634SR was just too impressive to pass up. Originally featured in one of Iron Heart‘s Facebook albums, this pair belongs to denim head, “MJ”, and were put through the wringer on a daily basis for approximately two years.

After connecting briefly with MJ to get a better sense of his 634SRs, we learned that he wore them nearly everyday at his day job as an auto mechanic and treated them to three healthy machine washes, as well as multiple hand washes. As a result, he was left with a stunning, albeit absolutely destroyed, pair of heavyweight raw denim.

To lend a brief background on the 634SR, they serve as Iron Heart‘s 5 Year Anniversary straight cut model. As one would expect with the motorcycle-inspired Japanese label, the raw jeans incorporate a super heavy 21 oz. fabric (23 oz. post-shrink) and litany of sturdy hardware detailing. Unfortunately, as production was limited to just 400 pairs, the 634SR is no longer available for purchase.

Details

  • Name: Iron Heart 634SR
  • Weight: 21 Oz. pre-shrink / 23 Oz. post-shrink
  • Fit: Straight with roomier thigh
  • Other details:
    • Bronze coloured hardware
    • Button fly and hidden rivets

Photos – Before

Iron Heart - Before

Photos – After

Iron Heart 634SR - Front and Back

Iron Heart 634SR - Back Closeup

The post Fade Friday – Iron Heart 634SR (2 Years, Multiple Washes) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.


Iron Heart x Pronto 25oz Collaboration (PIH2DC) – Just Released

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Iron Heart x Pronto 25oz Collaboration (PIH2DC) - Just Released

Two weeks ago, denim brands, retailers, and enthusiasts from all around the globe swarmed Bangkok, Thailand for this year’s 2013 Pronto Denim Carnival. If organizing the event wasn’t enough for hosts, Pronto Denim, the Bangkok retailer also use the momentous day to unveil the Iron Heart x Pronto 25 oz. Collaboration (PIH2DC).

The third iteration of the denim shop’s collaboration with the Japanese selvedge heavyweight Iron Heart, Pronto Denim has a strong hold on the high-end denim marketplace as one of the largest chain of such shops outside of Japan. Thus, it should come as no surprise that Iron Heart, one of the many respected brands that Pronto carries, has expanded their relationship into a recurring collaboration.

Iron Heart x Pronto 25oz Collaboration (PIH2DC) - Just Released

Heavyweight denim fans can rejoice, because while the first version had a weight of 17 Oz. and the second had a weight of 21 Oz. this recent gargantuan third release clocks in at a colossal 25 Oz. This run of jeans was released specially for the 2nd annual Denim Carnival and comes in a slim cut.

Unfortunately, unless you’re willing to put in the time trawling through selling forums, they’re completely sold out and indefinitely unavailable online. Regardless, they’re worth a look.

Details

  • Name: Iron Heart x Pronto 25oz Collaboration (PIH2DC)
  • Weight: 25 Oz.
  • Fit: Slim Cut
  • Other details:
    • Blue back pocket detailing
    • Contrast topstitching throughout

Photos

Iron Heart x Pronto 25oz Collaboration (PIH2DC) - Just Released

Iron Heart x Pronto 25oz Collaboration (PIH2DC) - Just Released

Iron Heart x Pronto 25oz Collaboration (PIH2DC) - Just Released

Iron Heart x Pronto 25oz Collaboration (PIH2DC) - Just Released

Iron Heart x Pronto 25oz Collaboration (PIH2DC) - Just Released

The post Iron Heart x Pronto 25oz Collaboration (PIH2DC) – Just Released appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Iron Heart 634S 19 Oz. Left Hand Twill – Just Released

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Iron Heart 634S 19 Oz. Left Hand Twill

Known for making some tough as nails denim, revered heavyweight specialist, Iron Heart, brings us the 634s 19 oz. Left Hand Twill denim. Contrasting their previous work, Iron Heart  incorporated a new type of denim for this jean which employs dark indigo dye, and a left hand twill.

This means that in appearance, you will be able to see that the yarn used to weave the fabric will tend to run a diagonal line from top left to bottom right in the jean. Due to this unique weaving method, the 634s will tend to possess a softer hand despite its heavy weight.

Iron Heart 634S 19 Oz. Left Hand Twill

The straight cut and heavy weight of the jeans will make it an ideal piece to have in your line up for the upcoming chillier months. The jeans also seem to have a slubby, hairy characteristic to them as well making for an interesting appearance. For more information on how slub differs to nep texture, be sure to check out our previous guide.

ih-634s-19l-5

The denim used to make this jean is unsanforized. As a note to those worried about shrinkage, Iron Heart states that the jeans have been once washed to ensure that further shrinkage is minimal to none. The sizing to this specific pair also seems to be different due to the way that the denim behaves, thus the they also suggest that you refer to their size charts.

ih-634s-19l-4

Details

  • Name: Iron Heart 634S 19oz. Left Hand Twill Straight Cut Jeans
  • Weight: 19 oz.
  • Fit: Straight Cut
  • Denim: Left Hand Twill Super Dark Indigo Selvedge (unsanforized, once washed)
  • Other:
    • Red Selvedge Line
    • Lined Rear Pockets
    • Button Fly
    • Branded Waist Button and Rivets
    • Belt Loops Sewn Into Waistband
    • Over Gauge Constructional Stitching
    • Pocket Bag Detailing
  • Available at: Iron Heart for $400

IH 19 lefty

ih-634s-19l-3

ih-634s-19l-1

The post Iron Heart 634S 19 Oz. Left Hand Twill – Just Released appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Iron Heart Jackets – Type IIII Modified, Blanket Lined Indigo Rider

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Iron Heart Jackets - Type IIII Modified, Blanket Lined Indigo Rider

Iron Heart recently added two new denim jackets to their collection, one of which was created in conjunction with denim purveyor, Self Edge. The two rarely, if ever, fail to impress when it comes to their collaborative projects, and both pieces ooze with the heavyweight, sturdy details that we’ve all come to admire with Iron Heart goods.

1. Self Edge x Iron Heart Type III Modified Jacket (SEXIH07IIIBK)

SEXIH07IIIB Type III Modified Jacket Cuf - SEXIH07IIIB Type III Modified Jacket Closeup - SEXIH07IIIB Type III Modified Jacket

The Type III Modified Jacket (SEXIH07IIIBK) is overdyed with black fugitive pigment dye, which will allow it to fade to a bright indigo (a.k.a. atari fade). It is 2” longer than other Iron Heart jackets, giving its wearer the ability to pair it with an untucked shirt or button-down.

It was constructed with a 3×1 weave right hand twill and out of the same unsanforized 19 oz. indigo denim as the SEXIH07. Needless to say, this jacket is bound to yield amazing results.

Details

  • Name: Self Edge x Iron Heart Type III Modified Jacket (SEXIH07IIIBK)
  • Weight: 19 Oz.
  • Fabric: Unsanforized indigo selvedge denim
  • Other Details:
    • Dyed with Black Fugitive Pigment Dye
    • Selvedge Inner Placket Detail
    • Type III Body lengthened by 2” 
  • Available at: Self Edge for $535.00

2. Iron Heart Blanket Lined 21oz Indigo Rider’s Jacket

IH Blanket Lined 21oz Indigo Rider’s Jacket Collar - IH Blanket Lined 21oz Indigo Rider’s JacketLining - IH Blanket Lined 21oz Indigo Rider’s Jacket

As its name suggests, the Rider’s Jacket is composed of a heavy 21 oz. indigo denim, as well sports a necessary heavyweight leather zip pull with over-specced YKK zippers. A shop favorite at Self Edge, the Iron Heart team iterated on previous versions by adding a blanket lining and quailed satin lined arms.

Details

  • Name: Iron Heart Blanket Lined 21oz Indigo Rider’s Jacket
  • Weight: 21 Oz.
  • Fabric: Sanforized Indigo Denim
  • Other Details:
    • Blanket inner lining
    • Satin lined arms
    • Navy blue corduroy inner collar stand
    • Action bi-swing pleated shoulders
  • Available at: Self Edge for $650.00

The post Iron Heart Jackets – Type IIII Modified, Blanket Lined Indigo Rider appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Top 13 Fades of 2013 – Fade Friday

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Top 13 Fades of 2013

As long-time readers here well know, every Friday we focus our attention on an aged pair of raw denim jeans through our weekly instalment, Fade Friday. Though not every episode is a fan favourite, there are a healthy handful that garner much more interest and enthusiasm.

More importantly, with 2013 now in our rear-view mirror, we take a moment to round up the top 13 fades from the past year. If there’s a pair that you think we’ve missed, let us know in the comments below.

1. Levi’s 511 Rigid Dragon (20 Months, 2 Washes)

Details

  • Weight: 11.2 oz.
  • Fit: Slim Fit
  • Denim: 99% Cotton, 1% Spandex
  • Length of Wear: 20 Months
  • Number of Washes: 2
  • Original Fade Friday

2. Samurai S5000S 21 Oz. (5 Months, 1 Soak, 1 Wash)

Details

  • Weight: 21 oz.
  • Fit: Straight Leg, Mid Rise
  • Denim: 100% Cotton, Japanese Selvedge
  • Length of Wear: 5 Months
  • Number of washes: 1
  • Original Fade Friday

3. Unbranded 201 UB201 (3 Years, 4 Washes)

Details

  • Weight: 14 Oz.
  • Fit: Tapered
  • Other Details:
    • Blank fly buttons, rivets, and leather patch
    • Chain stitched hem
    • Two-toned stitching
    • Blue selvedge
  • Original Fade Friday

4. Strike Gold 1105 (2 Years, 13 Washes)

Details

  • Weight: 14.5 Oz.
  • Fit: Slim Leg
  • Denim: 100% Japanese Cotton Selvedge Raw Unsanforized Denim (golden sparkle ID)
  • Additional Details:
    • Hidden Rivets
    • Button Fly
    • Deerskin Leather Tag
    • Iron Male Rivet – Copper Female Rivet
  • Length of Wear: 2 Years
  • Number of washes: 13
  • Original Fade Friday

5. Pure Blue Japan XX-011 (26 Months, 10 Washes)

Details

  • Name: Pure Blue Japan XX-011 
  • Weight: 13.5 Oz.
  • Denim: 100% Cotton Selvedge Denim from Okayama, Japan
  • Fit: Tapered
  • Other Details
    • Left Hand Twill
    • Indigo warp with grey weft
  • Length of Wear: 26 Months
  • Number of Washes: 10 Months
  • Original Fade Friday

6. Levi’s 511 Rigid (14 months, 2 washes, 1 soak)

Details

  • Weight: 11.2 Oz.
  • Fit: 511 Slim
  • Denim: 100% cotton
  • Length of Wear:  14 Months
  • Number of Washes: 2 washes, 1 soak
  • Original Fade Friday

7. Eternal 811s (2 Years, No Washes)

Details

  • Name: Eternal BIG811XXX “Contest Jeans”
  • Weight: 14.5 Oz.
  • Fit: Mid-rise, straight fit
  • Denim: Unsanforized, 100% Japanese Cotton Selvedge Raw Denim
  • Length of Wear: 2 Years
  • Number of washes: None
  • Additional Details:
    • 39″ inseam
    • Half-lined back pockets
    • 6 oz. indigo-dyed pocket bags
    • Custom contest label
    • Custom leather patch
  • Original Fade Friday

8. Skull Jeans 5010xx 6×6 (4 Years, Unknown Washes)

Details

  • Name: Skull Jeans 5010xx 6×6
  • Weight: 14.5 Oz.
  • Fit: Slim tapered cut
  • Denim: 100% Pima Cotton
  • Length of Wear: 4 years
  • Number of Washes: Unknown
  • Original Fade Friday

9. Iron Heart 634S-RAW (8 Months, 8 Washes)

Iron Heart 634S-RAW (8 Months, 8 Washes)

Details

  • Name: Iron Heart 634S-RAW Limited Run
  • Weight: 21 Oz. (shrinks to 23 Oz. post-soak)
  • Denim: Unsanforized 100% Zimbabwean Long Fiber Cotton Denim
  • Fit: Straight Leg
  • Length of wear: 8 Months
  • Washes: 8 Washes
  • Additional Details:
    • Button fly
    • Hidden rivets
    • Right Hand Twill
    • Limited Run
  • Original Fade Friday

10. Unbranded 21 Oz. 121 Skinny (2.5 Months, No Washes)

Details

  • Weight: 21 Oz.
  • Fit: Skinny
  • Denim: 100% cotton, sanforized, rope-dyed raw indigo denim
  • Other Details:
    • Silver matte fly buttons and rivets
    • Leather patch
    • Chain stitched hem
    • Two-toned stitching
  • Original Fade Friday

11. Levi’s LVC 1947 501xx (9 Months, No Washes)

Details

  • Weight: 14 Oz.
  • Fit: Classic fit with straight leg
  • Length of Wear: 9 months
  • Washes: None
  • Other Details:
    • 100% cotton
    • Shrink to fit selvage denim from Cone Mills Oak Plant
  • Original Fade Friday

12. Naked & Famous Left Hand Twill (15 Months, 2 Washes)

Details

  • Name: Naked and Famous Left Hand Twill Selvedge
  • Weight: 13.75 Oz.
  • Fit: Skinny Guy (Medium rise, Straight leg, Slim throughout)
  • Denim: Old-School Left Hand Twill Weave
  • Other Details:
    • Deep Indigo Dyed
    • Japanese Fabric
    • Made in Canada
  • Original Fade Friday

13. Kamikaze Attack x Naked & Famous (6 Months, No Washes)

Details

  • Name: Kamikaze Attack x Naked & Famous
  • Weight: 14.5 Oz.
  • Fit: Naked & Famous Skinny Guy Fit
  • Denim: Super Dark Indigo Warp + Weft Unsanforized 100% Selvedge Denim
  • Length of wear: 6 months
  • Number of washes: 0
  • Other details
    • Half-lined back pockets
    • Hidden copper rivets
    • Deerskin leather patch
  • Original Fade Friday

Honorable Mention – SEXI14 (15 Months, 8 Soaks, 3 Washes)

Details

  • Weight: 15 Oz.
  • Fit: Slim Fit
  • Denim: Pure indigo un-calendered, un-mercerized, & un-singed 100% selvedge denim
  • Length of wear: 15 months
  • Number of washes: 3
  • Number of soaks: 8
  • Original Fade Friday

The post Top 13 Fades of 2013 – Fade Friday appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

NoKipple Launch: High Quality, Low Volume

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No Kipple Logo

Just over two months ago, Iron Heart forum founding member, Jonathan Joseph, teamed up with one of the member’s behind the no-nonsense Mega Beatle Buster and HWDC2Gavin Smith (aka. Megatron1505), to bring a long standing dream to life. The duo wanted to bring their love for rare, artisanal clothing goods into the world of modern retail, so after years and months of ideation and planning, the team launched their online retail store, NoKipple.

NoKipple founding team (L-R) - Gavin Smith, Jonathan Joseph

NoKipple founding team (L-R) – Gavin Smith, Jonathan Joseph

The name is in reference to Philip K Dick’s “Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep and appropriately translates to “No Rubbish”. The online store lives by the three fundamental rules that guide their decisions: 1) good people make good things, 2) good things endure, and 3) relationships matter.

It’s important to note too that Joseph and Smith happily admit there are plenty of high quality goods in the market that are well worth buying; their aim is not to spread rhetoric that is so common with numerous upstart projects. Rather, their goal is to represent artisanal brands that aren’t commonly found in the Western world that offer something new at the table.

Jonathan (center left) and Gavin (center right) with the Trophy Clothing team.

Jonathan (center left) and Gavin (center right) with the Trophy Clothing team.

Thus, for their debut, the NoKipple lineup consists of select, curated brands; including Elhaus, Jelado, Sagar, Trophy Clothing, and Tush. Each represents timeless quality with elegant details in a unique way, and also have a host of interesting people behind them.

Trophy Clothing

trophy

Trophy Clothing is the brainchild of Masaki Egawa, an enthusiast of everything vintage related to motorcycles, clothing and music. Focused on the correlation of form and function, Egawa is determined to create products that are as durable and simple as possible, while still including complex details that will fascinate the wearer for months to come.

trophy2

Jelado

jelado storefront

Fellow vintage clothing lover, Yohei Goto, is the mastermind behind line Jelado. A real renaissance man, when Goto isn’t busy designing clothes or collecting vintage clothing pieces, he kick boxes competitively; perhaps contributing to Jelado’s wide scope and output. The brand’s collection includes jeans, shirting, jackets, outerwear, shoes, accessories with a focus in classic youth wear of the 1940’s and 50’s.

jelado shirt

jelado clothing patch

Elhaus

nokipple x elhaus

Friends and colleagues, Raven and Eduardus, co-own Indonesian denim company Elhaus. Located in the hub of Jakarta, the two will be the first to admit that Indonesian denim does not have the same reputation as Japanese denim. However, as long as they are up and running, it is a personal goal of theirs to change this perception.

As a growing name in the Southeast Asia denim community, Elhaus has no problems with experimentation and tinkering. Aside from their creative skill set, their country possesses a rich textile history that allows the duo to push the boundaries on the clothes they craft.

IMG_5204_zpsd1f7d876

elhaus2 elhaus1

Sagara

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Also based in Indonesia is Sagara and it’s founder and owner, Bagus Satrio. According to NoKipple‘s Gavin Smith, when they asked how much of the boot-making process was automated, Satrio laughed and told him he couldn’t afford machines. From leather cutting to hole-punching to stitching, every boot and shoe is flawlessly constructed solely by hand.

According to Satrio, he will not sell Sagara products to physical retail stores as he claims he needs his products to reach customers in pristine conditions – people trying on his shoes or boots would ruin the experience he is trying to create with his products.

560858_211789265651258_169158606_n

IMG_9179_zps16e2a6d9

Tush

Tush

Tush owner Tush Kawakami

Last, but not least,the sole founder of Tush is Tush Kawakami, an artisan leather master. A longtime friend and collaborator of Trophy Clothing owner, Masaki Egawa, Kawakami shares a passion for vintage motorcycles, clothing and music. Much like Egawa, Kawakami is also a perfectionist and as a result every single product that leaves his room is designed, sewn, cut and assembled by Tush, the epitome of made from scratch by hand.

tush2 tush

Though still very much in the early days of operation, it’s clear that NoKipple is dead set on fulfilling it’s vision through a curated offering of low volume, high quality goods. To learn more about their company and browse their selection, visit their website.

The post NoKipple Launch: High Quality, Low Volume appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Iron Heart Black 21oz Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jean (IH-634S-BLK)

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Iron Heart Black 21oz Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jean (IH-634S-BLK) - RawrDenim

After seeing how popular their perpetually sold out 21 Oz. Straight Cut jean (IH-643S) was, Japanese denim heavyweights, Iron Heart, decided to step it up and offer it in a seasonally-appropriate black. The IH-634S-BLK is the same signature straight cut jean, except with a black rope-dyed sulphur warp.

The jeans feature many of the same details as the indigo version, like a natural weft, hidden rivets, a selvedge fly detail, poly/cotton stitching, and sanforized 21 Oz. selvedge to avoid shrinking.  They’re available now for $375.00 USD on Iron Heart‘s website, so be sure to check out the photos below and the brand’s online shop.

Details

  • Name: Iron Heart Black 21 Oz. Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jean (IH-634S-BLK)
  • Weight: 21 Oz.
  • Fit: Straight Cut
  • Denim: 100% sanforized cotton super heavy sulphur-dyed black selvedge
  • Other details:
    • Hidden rivets
    • Selvedge fly detail
    • Poly/cotton stitching
  • Available at: Iron Heart for $375.00

Photos

Iron Heart Black 21oz Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jean (IH-634S-BLK) - RawrDenim Iron Heart Black 21oz Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jean (IH-634S-BLK) - RawrDenim Iron Heart Black 21oz Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jean (IH-634S-BLK) - RawrDenim Iron Heart Black 21oz Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jean (IH-634S-BLK) - RawrDenim

The post Iron Heart Black 21oz Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jean (IH-634S-BLK) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Iron Heart “The Lefty Trucker” 19oz Left Hand Twill Type III (IH-526L)

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Iron Heart "The Lefty Trucker" 19oz Left Hand Twill Type III (IH-526L) - RawrDenim.com

On the heels of our feature on Iron Heart‘s new Black 21 Oz. Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jean comes the recent release of the Japanese brand’s new denim jacket. The Lefty Trucker (IH-526L) is a 19 Oz. selvedge left hand twill Type III jacket, differing from their other standard right hand twill Type III version.

What is interesting about this jacket, besides it being left hand twill, is that it is designed to be longer in the body and arms than Iron Heart‘s traditional right hand twill version. For those with long torsos or gangly arms, this will be a godsend.

Unlike the traditional design, The Lefty Trucker also features side hand warmer pockets, helpful for those with things to stash. The jacket also features a selvedge placket detail, felled internal seams, and a once-washed unsanforized fabric that will have little to no shrink.

It’s available right now for $475.00 on Iron Heart‘s website, so be sure to check out the photos below and then head on over to the brand’s page for even more info.

Details

  • Name: Iron Heart “The Lefty Trucker” 19 Oz. Left Hand Twill Type III Jacket (IH-526L)
  • Weight: 19 Oz.
  • Fit: Longer in the body and arms than Iron Heart‘s traditional Type III jacket
  • Denim: Once-washed unsanforized, left hand twill Japanese selvedge denim
  • Other details:
    • Side hand warmer pockets that have usable internal storage spaces as well
    • Selvedge placket detail
    • Felled internal seams
    • Once-washed sanforized fabric means little to no shrinking
  • Available at: Iron Heart for $475.00

Photos

Iron Heart "The Lefty Trucker" 19oz Left Hand Twill Type III (IH-526L) - RawrDenim.com

Model is 6’2″ with a 42″ chest, and is wearing a size Large 

Iron Heart "The Lefty Trucker" 19oz Left Hand Twill Type III (IH-526L) - RawrDenim.com

Iron Heart "The Lefty Trucker" 19oz Left Hand Twill Type III (IH-526L) - RawrDenim.com

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Self Edge x Iron Heart 20 Oz. Left Hand Twill Denim

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Self Edge x Iron Heart 20 oz Left Hand Twill

Self Edge and Iron Heart have a close working relationship that has resulted in exclusive denim and more than just a handful of collaboration pieces over the last half decade. In fact they’ve released 21 collaborations and for their 22nd collaboration, they’re releasing not just one jean, but two jeans and a jacket using a denim fabric that neither brand has ever used before – a 20 Oz. unsanforized loomstate left hand twill denim.

Made from American cotton, this denim is unique in that it is one of the few unsanforized fabrics that Iron Heart has ever used and on top of that, it’s uncommon to find left hand twill denim at this heavier weight. The denim has an interesting indigo color due to the grey weft yarns. The combination of the heavier weight, loomstate nature, and darker weft yarns should yield some pretty high contrast fades quickly that will please many Iron Heart fans.

Self Edge x Iron Heart 20 oz Left Hand TwillThe denim will be used in two styles of jeans: the slim tapered 301s cut and the 633s cut which is a modified 643s cut that is straight above the knee and tapers down past the knee with a longer inseam. Both jeans feature the same kind of details expected from Iron Heart which includes cotton poly core thread stitching, heavy canvas pocket bags, heavy leather patch, and the back pocket arcuates but in an indigo thread as opposed to the more commonly seen contrast thread.

SEXIH22TYPEIII_07

As for the jacket, it is a modified Type III jacket with a longer body that makes it easier to wear a shirt untucked underneath. It also features hand pockets which is something Self Edge owner, Kiya Babzani, has been adamant about having with any collaboration jacket. A left hand twill jacket in a loomstate 20 oz denim is something that many denim heads will be excited about as it should quickly become comfortable to wear and lead to some interesting wear patterns.

The collection is a limited release that will not be remade, so be sure to pull the trigger quickly if you’re on the fence. It will be available for sale both online and in all Self Edge stores on Feb 15th at 12:00PM EST.

Self Edge x Iron Heart 20 oz Left Hand Twill 301s, 633s

Self Edge x Iron Heart 20 oz Left Hand Twill 633s

SExIH22 – 633s

Self Edge x Iron Heart 20 oz Left Hand Twill 301

SExIH22 – 301s

Details

  • Name: Self Edge x Iron Heart 20 oz Left Hand Twill 301s and 633s 
  • Weight: 20 oz
  • Denim: 100% American cotton, unsanforized, loomstate, left hand twill selvedge denim
  • Other details:
    • Cotton-Poly core thread stitching
    • Grey weft yarns
    • Indigo thread arcuates
    • Hidden rivets
    • Heavy canvas pocket bags
  • Available at: Self Edge 301s and 633s both for $400.00

Self Edge x Iron Heart 20 oz Left Hand Twill SExIH22 TYPEIII Jacket

SEXIH22TYPEIII_01_02

SEXIH22TYPEIII_09

Details

  • Fit: Modified Type III jacket
  • Weight: 20 oz
  • Denim: 100% American cotton, unsanforized, loomstate, left hand twill selvedge denim
  • Other details:
    • Cotton-Poly core thread stitching
    • Grey weft yarns
    • Lengthened body by 2 inches
    • Hand pockets
  • Available at: Self Edge for $495.00

The post Self Edge x Iron Heart 20 Oz. Left Hand Twill Denim appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Iron Heart The Johnny Cash Works Too Superblack 12oz Denim Work Shirt

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Iron Heart The Johnny Cash Works Too - Superblack 12oz Selvedge Denim Work Shirt

It feels like “super” black selvedge denim has been on the rise lately, and for good reason. Don’t think that Japanese legends Iron Heart would be left out–they’ve recently come out with the Johnny Cash Works Too Superblack 12oz Selvedge Denim Work Shirt.

In a manageable 12oz weight, the difference with Iron Heart’s offering is that it’s reactive dyed. What is reactive dyed? Let’s take it straight from the brand themselves:

In a reactive dye a chromophore contains a substituent that is activated and allowed to directly react to the surface of the substrate. Reactive dyes have good fastness properties owing to the bonding that occurs during dyeing.

The work shirt’s warp and weft are both dyed, ensuring the deepest of black hues. It also features metal buttons, a chain stitch run-off, and felled seams throughout. There is some shrinkage to be expected, so Iron Heart made them slightly oversized to compensate.

Check out the photos below and then head over to Iron Heart‘s site for more.

Details

  • Name: Iron Heart “The Johnny Cash Works Too” Superblack 12oz Selvedge Denim Work Shirt (IHSH-95)
  • Weight: 12oz
  • Fabric: Reactive-dyed Japanese selvedge denim
  • Fit: Slightly oversized to compensate for shrinkage
  • Other details:
    • Metal buttons
    • Chain stitch run-off
    • Felled seams throughout
  • Available at: Iron Heart for $335.00

Photos

Fit - Iron Heart The Johnny Cash Works Too Superblack 12oz Denim Work Shirt

Iron Heart The Johnny Cash Works Too - Superblack 12oz Selvedge Denim Work Shirt

Iron Heart The Johnny Cash Works Too - Superblack 12oz Selvedge Denim Work Shirt

Iron Heart The Johnny Cash Works Too - Superblack 12oz Selvedge Denim Work Shirt

Iron Heart The Johnny Cash Works Too Superblack 12oz Denim Work Shirt

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Iron Heart Indigo Dipped Long Sleeved Thermal Henley

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Iron Heart Indigo Dipped Long Sleeved Thermal Henley - RawrDenim.com

Indigo knitwear has surged in popularity recently, with far-reaching brands like J.Crew and Club Monaco putting out indigo tees and sweaters of all sorts this season. While those options are attractive, it’s brands like Iron Heart that are truly leading the charge with their breadth of knowledge in all things indigo. One such available option from the Japanese brand is the Iron Heart Indigo Dipped Long Sleeved Thermal Henley (IHTL-1303).

Waffle thermals are well-regarded for how incredibly comfortable they are, so combining the fading properties of indigo with this particular piece of knitwear is a no-brainer. The henley itself has been hand-dipped in indigo four times for the richest of blues, with the unique benefit of the dyeing process removing all shrinkage. It will be a nice feeling for the customer to know that their henley won’t shrink unpredictably after the first several washes. Another notable detail is the four-needle flat seam construction, proving that the shirt will stand the test of many, many wears.

Like all indigo-dyed clothing, the shirt should be washed separately for the first several (or maybe just all) washes. It’s also important to note that due to the stretchiness of the fabric, Iron Heart warns that there may be some variation in sizing. Check out the details and photos below before heading over to the brand’s website for more.

Details

  • Name: Iron Heart Indigo Dipped Long Sleeved Thermal Henley
  • Fabric: 100% cotton
  • Other details:
    • Dyeing process has removed all shrinkage
    • Stretchiness of fabric may cause some sizing variation
    • Hand-dipped in indigo four times for a deep, dark finish
    • Four-needle flat seam construction
    • Made in Japan
  • Available at: Iron Heart for $200

Photos

Iron Heart Indigo Dipped Long Sleeved Thermal Henley - RawrDenim.com

Iron Heart Indigo Dipped Long Sleeved Thermal Henley - RawrDenim.com

Iron Heart Indigo Dipped Long Sleeved Thermal Henley - RawrDenim.com

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The Backyard Guide to Indigo Dyeing

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Indigo is one of the first dyes man ever used to color fabrics and it’ll probably be one of the last. The pigment is made from fermented leaves off of the indigo plant, which has flourished in India, China, Japan, Egypt, Africa, and Central South America. But indigo’s beauty doesn’t come from how hardy and colorfast a dye it is, in fact it’s the exact opposite. The simple scuffs and scrapes that come with regular wear cause indigo to slough off and lead to individualized wear patterns, like denim fades.

Many of our favorite brands have put a new spin on classic items by giving them an indigo bath, like the Red Wing x Tenue de Nîmes Indigo Boot or Iron Heart’s Indigo Henley.

Part of the reason for indigo’s longevity is that dyeing with it is a relatively cheap and easy process. Easy enough, in fact, that you could do it with an afternoon in your backyard! So we’d like to take the mystery out of every denimhead’s favorite pigment and show you how to blue yourself at home.

Materials

backyard dyeing - 01

This recipe will dye roughly 15 t-shirts or 7 pants/sweatshirts:

  • Five gallon bucket with lid
  • Dyeing agents (available separately or as a kit)
    • 20 grams pre-reduced indigo granules
    • 150 grams thiourea dioxide (thiox)
    • 100 grams soda ash
  • Rubber gloves
  • Clothesline with clothespins
  • Stick long enough to reach the bottom of the 5 gallon bucket
  • Wet non-synthetic things to dye (cotton, wool, linen, leather, etc.) plus test scraps
backyard dyeing - 16

No, that’s not dog poop. I just had my lawn aerated, thank you for noticing.

For this batch we’re going to be dipping wool rag socks, a short sleeve oxford cloth shirt, khaki duck chinos, a terry cloth sweatshirt, a plain white tee, and a baseball cap (a last second addition and thus not pictured).

1. Prep the Dye

backyard dyeing - 02

Fill your 5 gallon bucket with 4 gallons of warm tap water.

backyard dyeing - 06

Add the indigo, thiox, and soda ash.

backyard dyeing - 07

Stir for several minutes. It’ll take a while for all of the chemicals to dissolve within the water. You should have a marble-metallic type sheen across the solution’s surface when it’s ready.

backyard dyeing - 08

Cover the bucket and let it sit for 20 minutes. You can use this time to set up your clothesline and wet your clothes down or watch our Norman Porter video five times.

2. Giving it the Dip

backyard dyeing - 13

Your dyeing solution should be a a dark yellow-green color when you remove the lid.

backyard dyeing - 15

Check how the dye is working with a test scrap before dipping any of your garments. It’ll be a light green when it first comes out. Don’t worry; the fabric will turn that dark indigo color we all know and love as it oxidizes over the next 10-15 minutes. Here’s the same scrap not five minutes later:

backyard dyeing - 17

If you’re satisfied with the look of your test scrap, start with your first item. Make sure it’s thoroughly wet before you add it to the indigo or else it won’t dye evenly.

backyard dyeing - 19

Squeeze out all the excess air and water as you dip your item. You’ll want it as thoroughly saturated with the stuff as possible but be careful not to not let it touch the bottom, there’s most likely undissolved sediment down there and your item won’t dye evenly.

indigo socks on clothesline

Once your item is soaked to your satisfaction, hang it up on the clothesline to oxidize.

bubbly indigo bucket

Squeezing the air out of your clothes can create concentrated bubbles of oxidized indigo, which can make your item not dye evenly. Be sure to scoop them out and discard before moving on to the next piece.

indigo drying

After you’ve dipped all of your items, give them a few minutes to oxidize on the clothesline. You’ll probably want to do several more dips but you need to wait until all of the green has turned blue first or else–you guessed it–it won’t dye evenly.

unoxidized sweatshirt hem

The drippy ends of the bottom of your garments will be the last to turn, but be sure you also check the inside hems where fabric may have stuck together and prevented oxidization, like the turquoise patch on the sweatshirt above. Also, note that indigo will not adhere to synthetic materials like the nylon thread in the sweatshirt which will give you some neat contrast stitching.

fully dipped indigo clothes

Most items will require several dips to achieve a deep and uniform color. Repeat all steps above until you reach a satisfying level of indigo-ness, for me that was around 5 dips total.

3. Rinsing and Clean up

backyard dyeing - 10

If you have any dye left over you can cap it and set aside for use at a later date, it should last about a month before becoming fully oxidized. The dye is also non-toxic so if you have too little to save or just don’t care to, you can pour it out on your lawn or down the drain.

backyard dyeing feat

So now you’ve got a heap of dripping blue clothes. Even after drying, they’re still going to be super-saturated with indigo and give you a crazy amount of crocking.

indigo washing

Give them a quick bucket rinse to get rid of the excess dye.

indigo pour out

Again, aerated lawn, not dog poop.

Look at all the blue that would’ve ended up on your shoes, sofa, or skin. Even though we’ve washed them, everything we’ve dyed is still a looooong ways from being colorfast. Make sure you wash them separately until you’re sure they’ve stopped bleeding.

indigo tree

All that’s left is to let them dry, throw them on, and you’re ready for a high-class night out in Alberta!

final dyed indigo clohtes

The post The Backyard Guide to Indigo Dyeing appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Iron Heart New Release: 817 Deep Indigo Engineer Jeans

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Iron Heart is a denim brand that needs no introduction for denim heads worldwide. The motorcycle themed label has long sought to create garments that function at the highest possible level, and their recently released IH-817 from their Engineer denim line is no exception.

Like the previous Engineer incarnations, this pair features details that will shine on the job and extend its life. These include triple-needle felled seams, half-lined pockets, belt loops tucked into the waistband, plus some nifty extra pockets and tool loops for the people that’ll use these pants for their intended purpose. Fit-wise, they feature the same straight leg cut of previous Engineer brethren, the IH-808 and IH-809. The 817s don’t have the same weatherproof resin coating but according to Iron Heart UK’s Giles Padmore, the denim’s extremely tight weave should be wind resistant.

The biggest aesthetic difference in the IH-817′s orange-contrast stitching as opposed to the usual white, but Giles says it’ll tone down with wear. And unlike most of Iron Heart’s scale-tipping heavy denim, the Engineer line has weighs in at a modest 16oz. This fabric has often been used by parent company Triple Works and it’s known to be a quite stubborn fade, but those willing to wait will be rewarded with crazy high contrast results.

Act quick if you’re interested in picking up a pair–Iron Heart UK already has them on the Endangered list!

DETAILS

  • Name: Iron Heart 817 Deep Indigo Engineer’s Jean
  • Weight: 16 Oz.
  • Fabric:  100% cotton Sanforized dark indigo Japanese denim
  • Fit: Straight
  • Other details:
    • Triple needle stitch construction
    • Felled side seams
    • Non-selvedge finish
    • Belt Loops stitched into waist band
    • Half lined rear pockets
    • Talon zip fly
  • MSRP: $300 at Iron Heart UK

IH_eng_fit

Iron Heart Engineer Jeans Felled Seam

Triple Stitched Felled Seams

IH_eng_zip

IH_eng_front

The post Iron Heart New Release: 817 Deep Indigo Engineer Jeans appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

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